The best wave in the Maldives.

Click above to play the video in slow motion!

The day that never was

A side note the photos are taken from the video. And the video is of a video in slow motion obviously. The worst or probably the best thing is this is all I have of this session. Our still camera was flat and the video then went flat after only a few sets. This is an unbelievable turn of events that I now know was meant to be. It would of been so hard to hold this if I had epic photos and video of what actually transpired this day. It’s just a tiny example of the waves that came through but enough to see what it was like. If you thought the first wave on the video is outrageous buckle in for the next one. Absolutely mind blowing shape. What wave on earth bends back towards you whilst still barreling?

I’ve got the actual footage somewhere but with geo locations and stuff I don’t understand I thought I’d just upload it this way in case.

This wave and story happened almost 10 years ago. I’ve revisited it and edited a bit but nothing has changed. It's still the best day I have ever seen anywhere in my life. I’m by no means a world traveler but I have been to and surfed Indo, Hawaii, Fiji, Samoa and many more. I’ve kept it under wraps but it’s time to tell a story I think is worth telling now. I’m fairly sure I’ve found the best wave in the Maldives. This comes from experience having chased waves all over the country for over 20 years. If you have the time take a read below. It’s a little slow but it was a wild 24 hours and I’ve never had anything like this experience so I think it is worth a read to see what Liquid is all about I guess, finding the day of days for us surfers. The day you surf the best waves you have ever seen, that will forever be burnt into your memory.

I’m technically still waiting for the day when I surf the best wave in the Maldives and who knows maybe one of the best waves on the planet. It’s undoubtedly possible that this country has one of them. It’s got a few things going for it. It’s located in the middle of the Indian Ocean. It has hundreds of flawlessly shaped reef passes facing all directions and maybe more importantly I’ve been relentlessly chasing and studying it for a while now, like no other over here. I don’t think anyone on the planet has any idea the lengths I’ve been to in search of waves in the Maldives. It’s worth noting it’s not all about when I’ve been on the charters running Liquid Destination, which people don’t understand. I’ve spent years on my own boat exploring. I’ve taken domestic flights to chase waves on my own, taken speed launches staying on local islands and even camped on deserted islands. Any way I could get to somewhere I thought was worth it. I’d go. It’s been one hell of an adventure all in search of the best wave I can find and surf in the Maldives.

What has to be understood is it all starts with experiencing swells when they actually make land fall. All the forecasts in the world don’t mean shit if you haven’t been there or close to there before and know how the Maldives works. There’s so many things at play like topography of the ocean floor, swell direction, interval, winds, current, local weather and more. On this particular day and wave I talk about below I’d waited till it was going to be the right time to go for it. I’d seen it a few times and surfed it small but I wasn’t going to waste it. And waste I mean potentially expose it without nailing my chance. Exposing it can mean even being seen with a surfboard anywhere near the wave or more importantly on my way to it. The extent to which I go and level of secrecy is not to be underestimated. 

There’s one guy I trust and that’s my best mate in the Maldives, Aiya. He gets it. He’s been with me long enough to have seen a lot of what I know (maybe not all of course..) and understands the ramifications of waves being found and how much it sucks when they become crowded. This particular day he was coming with me. For multiple reasons I wanted him to be part of the journey. I think it is only right to experience it with my mate and a local and also to be honest it was going to be big, scary, shallow and if I got into trouble no one would know I was gone. I hadn’t told anyone, not even my wife. I’ve chased waves by myself without anyone knowing I was in these places a lot. I don’t know why I did this. I know it is stupid but I get a buzz out of it. It feels like a throwback in time to surf discovery from previous eras. I do feel there is a level though which it isn’t smart and that is if it is solid. This day was going to be six foot easily-proper six foot-and probably not smart alone. In hindsight it wouldn’t have helped one little bit as the boat was ages away scared shitless of the waves. They couldn’t have saved me.

The following story all went down within 24 hours. I had a day off the boat like I have between each trip and it just so happened the peak of the swell was hitting on the day off. I watch forecasts religiously and it was going to go off-easily one of the swells of the season, Not the biggest though which makes it even more interesting for the future but it was a really good one for the Maldives.

As the day got nearer and the storm formed it started getting very real. This is when predictions turn into reality. So the storm is formed and close to the peak and the winds are doing their thing to generate the swell and there is nothing stopping it now. My anticipation was very high, nerves even more intense. This was a wave I had known about for seven or eight years by now but I’d kept it for the perfect day and it was what I hoped would be the best wave in the Maldives. It still could be (or maybe that other one is?), and it was by far the best I had ever surfed-then and still to this day. And I have had some ridiculous pumping days in the Maldives. Back to the events though.

As the guests departed they didn’t notice my board bag on board the dhoni, none the wiser they left. They didn’t need to know, no one did. Hauling my board bag to the domestic airport I’m watching and praying there are no other surfers there taking domestic flights to anywhere. If there was, I don’t think I would have checked in. Even someone seeing me is a risk. This isn’t a joke to me, this is very real as I know what this wave could mean. I’m in luck though and there is no one that matters knowing where I am going. We check in and boards disappear, o.k that’s done. We go outside and chill out for a bit down the road. Making my way back in we go through to the gate and through to the tarmac and a quick check on my phone for the local wind reading to where we are going and not fifty metres from the plane and bang a storm has hit. I knew this was a risk but this was going to pass but right now was not good, not good at all. We boarded the plane and I know these storms but what can you do? The planes fly all the time around the country. I know it’s going to hit us and barely fifteen minutes in the sky and it is lighting up. Thunder is cracking all around and we are bouncing up and down like a yo-yo. It just keeps getting more intense and the pilot says we can’t go to our destination and not only that we can’t land anywhere! So we have to circle round in the air for way too long and I’m starting to shit myself. I’m white knuckling in my seat and looking over for a little bit of reassurance and my mate Aiya is fast asleep. Asshole. How the hell can he sleep through this? I’m off it, off him too, off everything in the world. I don’t really want to be here at the moment at all. After way too long it slowly calms and we make our way back to Male. Finally we land and looking across at my supposed mate he is still fast asleep, you are kidding me aren’t you? I elbow his arm and he pops his eyes open and goes to get up not knowing a damn thing about what happened. I proceed to tell him our beautiful experience flying above the Maldives in cyclonic conditions and how we couldn’t land and are back in Male. He doesn’t believe me at all. I have to make him look at the window at the big airport sign before he believes me, I mean he has experienced my wind ups and lies multiple times so in hindsight it’s know surprise he didn’t believe me. It was no excuse though for what felt like leaving me up there whilst he slept like a baby. 

So we get off the plane and head back to the terminal and wait. Someone comes and tells us that we aren’t leaving anytime soon, it’s 1:00am by now and that the flight is now scheduled for 4:20am. Far out, that sucks big time, I’m thinking. We look at each other and just go what we we going to do. Aiya wants to pull the pin and thinking back it didn’t even cross my mind. We were going, the swell was happening the winds were right and the reef was there. I’ve come this far, it’s all pointing towards being the day of days. We sat in the domestic terminal and had access to coffee and that is all that mattered. I don’t know if we slept. I don’t remember napping, maybe dozed but certainly not slept. We eventually board the flight. I check the winds at the location and it is sweet. o.k let’s do this we are going. Taking off I start going over and over in my mind the swell the weather and the location. I start thinking about the reef and what may lay in store. This is going to be interesting.

We’d organised a speed launch to take us to the wave. I wondered whether or not it would be there-but I was fairly sure it would be. Landing just prior to daylight we managed to find more coffee. It was the only thing I needed to survive. It’s amazing how much adrenaline can keep you awake and focused as well as coffee. We made our way to the harbour and our launch was there. Loading up the vessel we took off out of the harbour and an undisclosed amount of time later we arrive around the back of the island from the break. As we made our way around just enough light was there to see the swell. I can’t lie my heart dropped. I mean I could see there were waves for sure but it looked in those first moments 3-4 foot, maybe a bit more. I know enough though to wait and see what happens. Maybe these weren’t the sets, maybe the swell hadn’t hit, maybe we were late or early, maybe it wasn’t that big, maybe I’d blown it. After about ten minutes I was watching wave after wave peel down the reef. I don’t know whether it was the lack of sleep, the bad coffee or what, but I just feel lost and deflated. Maybe I’d got it wrong, maybe I had waited all those years for this? Just as I look around at the other islands in the distance thinking about my options as I swung back around it gripped my eyes, something way out. What the hell is that way up the reef? You know when you see that millimetre of darkness on the horizon that just turns your stomach, it’s darker water? Mine didn’t turn through fear, probably because we were miles away, it flipped in anticipation. As that millimetre grew the ripple changed in the light. There was one behind it as well. Hang on, what’s the truck is this? Way out and I mean way out it started to cap, holy shit I couldn’t believe my eyes. This thing broke hundreds of metres up and what seemed that far out as well. It was totally different to the last ten minutes. It just kept coming down the reef and turning in on itself and then behind it another one and then another one and then another one. The last few waves had not stopped breaking and I was already head down ripping zippers open on board bags and flinging stuff around the boat. I was shaking and couldn’t find my shit fast enough We were a long way away and the the boat driver had no idea about the waves but all that mattered to me was where’s my board shorts and board, I’m out there. My eyes were like saucepans when I looked up at Aiya. Did you see that? I was freaking out trying to get a grip of what I had just seen. Leg ropes got caught on seats, everything got hooked on something else it was mayhem but for once I didn’t loose it I was just thinking let’s go, then let’s go I’m yelling out loud. 

The boat driver slowly made his way up and out the back. I was still coming to terms with that I saw. I certainly had never seen anything like that in the Maldives, in fact anywhere in the world, not like that, not that shape, not turning on itself and wrapping on itself, barreling on itself, not like that. I got dropped way out the back as those waves had broke a long way out. I had to paddle in from a mile away cause the boat had no idea and either did I at this size. I also had absolutely no idea where to sit, none. I was doing my sums in my head. Interval, size, amount of potential sets, how far out to be, how shallow is the reef at this point where I was. It was not breaking anywhere near where it had before. I was just sitting and waiting for the next sets and  just when I was questioning if maybe the swell had just hit I was answered, those little black ripples appeared in the distance. What if they are bigger? I just started paddling towards the horizon, I’m not getting caught out because those sets were way bigger than before are the next ones going to be bigger again? I know now that no one is going to save me, Aiya and that boat were about a kilometre away staying as far back as they could. I was on my own. As the sets started capping I knew I was fine as I was way out to sea like in deep blue water but still damn they are breaking a long way out and look how far back around the reef they are going to be breaking. This was wild. I let those first sets go. They were definitely bigger, how much I’m not sure but it was definitely six foot and that’s being conservative. I paddled back into position and my mind was set. I’m going one of the next sets. Not the first or second but maybe the third or fourth, I just had to be in position. Circling around trying to find my mark I waited. I put myself in the zone. I was far enough inside. I was either going to cop them on the head or get one. I’d been here for too many years, made too many sacrifices away from my family, this was what I dreamed about. What I have been here for all along. This moment. And here they come. 

They were solid, I could tell straight away those dark lumps on the horizon. Here we go. It’s funny in those moments I’ve had them before no matter that wave comes through I’m going. Even if I get my arsed kicked, I’m going. I let the first one go as I was a little far out and I didn’t want it. I went over it and had to paddle wider straight away as the second one was a bomb. I came over it fairly easily and the next one I knew straight away was mine. I was going. It was absolutely perfect and I knew I could catch it, I just knew. As I paddled into it I just kept looking down the line at this wall that went for hundreds of metres I could see it going forever, the thing about this wave though is the bend in the reef. I knew I could trust it for some reason. After surfing a lot of other solid waves in the Maldives you know what to look for and over here you have to trust the reef more than anything. I dropped down and I don’t know why but I felt really relaxed, I was going to enjoy this ride it kind off looked easy and it was. There was not one ounce of fear in me it felt like just a deep concentrated state to make it and try to get barrelled. I must admit that first one I wasn’t deep enough but shit I was close. I nursed my bottom turn and held my line coming up high but was too far in front. I’d tried to delay it but having no idea what it was actually going to do I’d misjudged it slightly. It didn’t really matter as I still had a couple of hundred metres to negotiate! I tried to readjust and go back to delay my bottom turn enough but I just couldn’t quite pick it. I swooped up again and ended up doing some kind of half turn as it seemed down the line still had some wall in it. I thought well, I’ve got to at least hook into this thing if I can’t get barrelled. I’ve tried twice maybe I will try to do a big turn. The speed was too much though. And in my haste I’d basically brought out a fat shortboard that was basically for four foot walls. It was my favourite board at the time but not the board for this wave at all. This wave was top to bottom, slightly almondy but not like true Maldives almond. It was round and it had the hell pocket in it. I just couldn’t pick it. I turned again and again slowly feeling my way down the line. I flicked off hundreds of metres from where I took off. There are a few longish waves in the Maldives but this was longer and intense the whole way, Nothing I’d seen yet was like this. I looked back to the boat and they were miles away, shitting themselves no doubt. I paddled back out and reset myself for the next set. I was in disbelief, absolutely astounded that this was real. I can still picture this moment in time, what feels like every wave that came through, every minute that passed in time is so vivid in my memory. I feel like I can remember it all. It was so wild to see waves like this in real life. Something so perfect so big and so unlike in shape that any wave I have ever seen even in surf movies or on line still to this day. I was experiencing that moment that I’d dreamed off having one day and every surfer has searching and finding for that one day of absolute perfection. Some look for 3 foot others 20. I’d found mine here today right now. This was six to eight foot and probably more on the odd set to be honest. The barrels were twice over my head and it was outrageous how the wave was acting. I could not believe what was happening. The next set was approaching and I was set on getting barrelled. I let the first one go and I still didn’t think it was wise yet and I did intend on letting the second go until I saw it. I’m going. In this moment you have to commit 100% as everyone knows who doesn’t mind having a dig at a decent wave. Head down and slightly angled I paddled hard as I could. I’m going no matter what. I got in easy, like the last one the take off was fine. This time I had positioned myself deeper. I took off and due to my positioning there was no bottom turn. I put my hands in the wave as I wanted to try to get as deep as possible. As I felt it loom up I stood up. I wasn’t super deep but I could see that lip come over and I knew I was in making it easily. It was so perfect. I’d like to have been deeper but haven’t we all thought about that? Coming out I drew out the bottom turn again. I thought here we go its going to go again but it didn’t really. I hooked up into a turn and set myself again for another turn. It was just this big open wall that was bending back on me. I felt like I needed to try to rip into one but again my board choice was haunting me after a couple more swoops I flicked off and at the top of the wave I saw the wave behind it. Now, I have never seen anything like this third wave in the set. I should of waited but what I witnessed shocks me still to this day. I have never seen such a perfect barrel bend in on itself. Flawlessly churning on itself. We have now seen today with the Slater wave pool this type of perfection, the perfection of the lip line but it was so different in that whilst Slater’s wave stays straight on itself this was wrapping around the corner back on itself. It is truly unique. I still to this day haven’t seen a wave anything like it, until the next wave that broke behind it. With even more concentration in the pocket and barreling on itself my mind was officially blown. This was just acting not like any wave I had seen, not even close. I’m telling you one day when this gets discovered and it come out mark my words this wave is something else. 

Paddling back out I’d noticed a dark line on the horizon in the sky. Another squall was coming, how far away though? From my experience I had maybe forty minutes and this thing was black. As I made my way back out I thought that’s it anyway. I’m done what more can I do? I’d surfed and seen the best wave, maybe one of the best in the world. I know what’s in the Maldives, I know the reefs, I’ve driven through them all and this was very high on the list and it was ticking all the boxes. The next half hour was the best surf I’ve ever had and best waves I’ve ever seen. Wave after wave of flawless lines breaking forever one after another. I rode the longest wave of my life, much farther than my first two. I’d gotten barrelled much deeper than i ever wanted to on one of them. I’d taken smaller ones just to hack into one and the thing is I didn’t even fall once which goads me a little bit as maybe I wasn’t deep enough? I’d had sessions like this though where you couldn’t put a foot wrong and I’d also had sessions where I basically got flogged on every wave. As far as what else I could of done maybe just taken a big close out, but they didn’t really exist in the traditional sense of a close out with this wave because of the shape of it. As the storm approached It was looking really nasty. It was time to head in. There’s no doubt I’d wish that storm hadn’t come, It would of let me get way more comfortable out there with the deeper ones but it didn’t matter. I was done, enlightened? I didn’t need anymore in my life. I made it back to the boat just in time get shelter behind an island. The storm passed but it had chopped up the channel so it was done. We made our way to check out a couple of other reefs and there was some very interesting set ups, not like this one but pumping swell was hitting them, one was scary maybe too fast? not sure.. I was content though and after spending a couple of hours hooning around checking waves out it was time to go home. We jumped back on our flight and made it back to Male just in time to walk back to the international airport and pick up the next guests. My board bag sat with Aiya. I shook hands with the new arrivals, How’s the waves been? Not too bad I said, righto fellas let’s go. We headed back to the boat and stepped on board and I did our introduction and safety speech. I had a beer with the guests and then sat at the back with Aiya. And his eyes were still like saucepans. He was in disbelief about what he had seen. He hand’t seen anything like either. All he said was, Best day ever. I said back what day? 

The day that never was. I’d decided to never tell anyone about that wave, until now. I think the reason is some local have been starting to surf it now and I know some companies have stumbled across it but have no idea what it is and to be honest I don’t think it is a wave for the typical Maldivian surfer. Surfers go to Indo or heavier wave locations for this type of stuff. It’s awesome it’s here though for us. 

I’ve surfed this wave several times since, none as big but that’s because it didn’t line up perfectly. Trust me I would go if it was, I’d be on the next flight. The best I’ve surfed it since was 3-4 foot and it was just as good as I thought but nothing like the day. In some way I like the fact it isn’t big that often. It’s truly something special this wave and I will never forget that day as long as I live. Perfection in every way. 

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